The Vespa on the Amalfi Coast, the gelato in Florence or the colourful houses of the Cinque Terre—we all know the cliché images of Italy on travel portals. This is no wonder that Italy ranks fifth worldwide for tourists with around 64.7 million international tourist arrivals in 2019, just behind France, Spain, the USA, and China.

But in times of the pandemic, it is advisable to avoid crowds as much as possible. At the same time, however, we also deserve to free our minds from the virus for a few days after being locked down. This is possible even in heavily frequented tourist destinations like Italy, for example in the Marche region. Unlike Lombardy or Sardinia, the region located in the centre of the country rarely makes it into the international press or pop-up advertising on Google. However, the 1.5 million inhabitants enjoy 173 kilometres of Adriatic coast and little cultural treasures—and so do the tourists who “get lost” in this region! But what is there to discover?

Fermo – Between the Middle Ages and the Roman Empire

Turns out there’s more than you might expect. The town of Fermo is a small jewel of the region. Located on top of a hill, the balconies of the city offer a panoramic view. In addition, the narrow streets are adorned with medieval walls. Culturally, Fermo offers an art gallery full of late Gothic paintings and one of Italy’s most renowned libraries full of ancient books and manuscripts. The 18th-century theatre “dell’Aquila” is considered  to be one of the most beautiful in the Marche and hosts operas and plays.

Aside from its cultural offer, Fermo also hides a historic treasure: the large Roman cisterns are a patrimony of the Augustan age. The cisterns have a maximum capacity of about 15,000 cubic metres which makes them the largest ever built by the Romans when it comes to surface area. But what if nature is calling instead?

Conero Natural Park – The Two Sisters and the Black Sand

What sounds like the title of a fairy tale are actually two different excursion destinations in the Conero Natural Park, which is located on the Adriatic coast. While there are various corners to discover, the Spiaggia delle Due Sorelle has to be one of the most well-known. Its two cliffs are called “due Sorelle” (“two sisters”) because they seem to have the shape of two praying nuns. The beach, which can be reached by ferry, was named one of the 10 most beautiful beaches in Italy in 2013.

Another destination is the Sassi Neri near Sirolo. This beach is not a real sandy beach and rather it is a stretch of coast with many tiny stones. From the parking lot, it is about a half-hour hike to the beautiful waters. The rather steep path is tough but leads directly through the flora and fauna of the national park. Guess the unavoidable sweating is worth it! But what if the city is calling instead?

San Benedetto del Tronto – From Sightseeing to the Beach

San Benedetto del Tronto, a city on the Adriatic Sea is located towards the southeast tip of the Marche, just before the border with Abruzzo. Founded in the 10th century, the city hosts one of the most important fishing ports in Italy. Seafaring is of great historical importance as demonstrated in detail across the various museums in the city. If the sea was was conquered, the land would subsequently be protected by two castles which guarded the city from any possible threats. If it is too hot for sightseeing, San Benedetto del Tronto also offers an 8-kilometre-long sandy beach and there are approximately 7,000 palm trees in the city for tourists to admire.

To our dismay, traveling remains difficult in today’s time. But perhaps, the Marche awoke the distant dreamer in you. Once we can pack our bags again and cross mountains as if it was nothing, you might find your way to the Marche, Italy’s lesser-known region. Crystal-clear waters, cultural offers, and a fresh plate of pasta are waiting for you!

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Church, beers, dances – a quick summary of the so-called Kirmes. Like many European traditions, the origins of the festivities around the Kirmes go back to the Middle Ages, when the consecration of the church was first celebrated. From the 12th century onwards, the fair developed more into a popular festival where friends and family met, people got married, and disputes were settled. In addition, the Kirmes was the perfect opportunity to meet suitable spouses.

The term Kirmes was established in the Westerwald, a low mountain range on the right bank of the river Rhine in West Germany. It is a combination of the German words “Kirche” (“church”) and “Messe” (“fair”). However, Germany has many more regional names for this annual tradition, such as Kerwe, Kerb or, in Swiss German, Chilbi.

In the villages of the rural region of the Westerwald, the fair has a special status as an annual highlight. Sophie, a young woman from this area, gives some insight and explains why the Westerwälder Kirmes is an entertaining attraction for locals, curious guests, or world travellers on voyage of discovery.

Tree Crowns and Flower Hats: The Kirmes Traditions

“What makes Kirmes in the Westerwald so special is that there is still a lot of tradition, while in areas on the Rhine it is more like an Oktoberfest,” reports Sophie. As a rule, the villages’ celebrations take place during the summer months. To understand why the Westerwälder Kirmes is so rich in tradition, some specific terms must first be clarified.

The celebration of the consecration is mainly characterized by the Kirmesburschen (“Kirmes lads”) together with their Kirmesmädchen (“Kirmes girls”), a group of young people mostly between 16 and their early 20s. The Kirmesbursch wears a Kirmeshut (“Kirmes hat”), which can be individually decorated with colourful flowers. In Sophie’s village, a girl must be asked by a Kirmesbursch to be his Kirmesmädchen. “We always joke that the men are still in charge here. But other places are a few steps further and the girls can decide themselves.” However, participation is open to everyone. Therefore, it is not uncommon that also Muslim men and girls get to participate.

The boys and girls then take care of the Kirmesbaum (“Kirmes tree”), a symbol of fertility and growth. The trees are taken from the local forest and their crowns are colourfully decorated. On the weekend of the fair, the Kirmes couples move through the village. The men put the trees in front of the church, at the mayor’s house, and on the village square.

Shouts of Joy and Plays of Wind Music

The Kirmes-company is accompanied by brass band music, and disco fox and waltzes are danced under the flamboyant trees. Some villages have their own songs and flags. Another component of these parades is the so-called Juchezen, a deafening cheer. Both the Juchezen and the village’s songs must be rehearsed well in the months before the celebrations. In Sophie’s case, there is also the so-called Brunnentaufe: to the delight of many spectators, the Kirmesburschen are dragged into the village’s fountain to be “baptized”.

The folk festival character manifests itself in the afternoon on the fairground, with merchants and carousels for the children. The big party continues here in the evening and at night. On the Sunday and Monday, the religious part of the fair takes place with the services in the church whose consecration is celebrated so sumptuously.

Physical Distancing and Social Convergence

Since COVID-19 was the only one dancing around the houses this year, many cultural events had to be cancelled. In Sophie’s village, it was the first time this recurrence was cancelled since the end of the Second World War.

“There were no meetings and no visits to other villages’ fairs. On Saturday, there were small street get-togethers outside organised by the neighbourhoods, and the Kirmes-company went through the village to greet the residents – at least that gave you a little Kirmes-feeling. Moreover, the Kirmesburschen offered to go to the supermarket for the elderly during these troubled times.”

After this summer of ceased singing from the heart and dancing crowds, we can only hope than soon cherished traditions from all over the world can be celebrated as before, in Munich, Venice, or elsewhere. And lost wanderers will be more than welcome to Juchezen way yonder in the Western woods.

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Manx, Gaelg Vanninagh, belongs to Celtic language family and is spoken on the Isle of Man in the heart of the Irish Sea. The island with about 80,000 inhabitants is subordinate to the British crown, but it is neither part of the UK nor the EU. Instead, the island is in a customs union for goods with Great Britain and the EU.

Of Irish mother and Norse father

In a time before tariff unions and Brexit talks, Druids from the West and Vikings from the East settled on the Isle of Man. Around 500 AD, during the Irish expansion phase, the Celtic winds carried Old Irish speakers to the shores of the Isle of Man. In the 8th century, the Norsemen came and conquered the isle, influencing its topography. This Northern mix brought Manx to life. The earliest documentation dates back to the 17th century, such as the agenda of the Anglican Church, the Book of Common Prayer.

Centuries later, in 1765, when the United Kingdom annexed the island, the growing dominance of English weakened the local language. During the 19th century, Manx speakers grew more and more indifferent to their mother tongue, choosing instead to speak English. The introduction of compulsory schooling in 1872, which mandated English as the sole language for education, meant that the fate of Manx was set in stone. Parents stopped raising their children to be bilingual, which led to a radical decrease in native speakers. In 1974, the last native speaker, a fisherman named Ned Maddrell, passed away – and with him a precious part of the Northern European heritage.

From Unescapable Agony to Unforeseen Resurrection

Manx-enthusiasts bemoaned the slow death of the language. One of them was Brian Stowell. Before Maddrell’s death, he recorded tapes to safeguard pronunciation, and preserve the ashes of a then presumed dead tongue. His effort facilitated significantly the study of this language. It was one of the first revitalisation measures.

Another resuscitation attempt came from the top. In 1985, an official resolution of the Tynwald, the island’s Parliament, officially recognised Manx for the first time, albeit to a limited extent. The Coonceil ny Gaelgey, a Manx Gaelic Advisory Board, was established, together with the Manx Heritage Foundation, the Culture Vannin. This standardised the official use of the language and provided translations services. Soon, bilingualism among children was breathing new young life into the language. Nowadays, the Bunscoill Ghaelgagh elementary school in St. Johns, is notorious for teaching in Manx only.

Moreover, in 2015 the Department of Education, Sport and Culture (DESC) and Culture Vannin established the Manx Language Network. The network seeks to develop ideas on the future and maintenance of this language. For instance, it published The Manx Language Strategy 2017-2021 and the Action Plan on its website.

Technology and social media also played a role in revitalising the language. Adrian Cain, for instance, is a dedicated Manx tweeter and promotes the language on YouTube. Additionally, the Culture Vannin developed a free language learning app in 2013 – an example of modern tools reviving ancient languages.

Is Manx a Flourishing Yet Fading Celtic Flower?

Despite all these efforts, the future of Manx is still uncertain – and downright endangered. Even though the number of people using Manx as a second language is growing, there are no real native speakers. In 2015, approximately 1800 people knew Manx, 2% of the total island’s population. We can say that the language is indeed alive, but still not well enough. Only the future can tell if and when the first Manx babies will speak their first word in Manx.

However, the life and death, rebirth and growth of the Manx language demonstrate that obscure and lost tongues can, in fact, be rescued. With its Irish and Norse family tree, it is more than welcome back at the large European languages family table.

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Flying with Birds 

Around 800 AD, the Norsemen conquered the Scottish island Foula, 20 miles west of mainland Shetland. Its name is Old Norse for “Bird island” – today it is a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) for its plants, birds and geology. During midsummer, a wide range of wildflowers adorn the island’s cliffs. Until nowadays, its Viking soul is alive and well: The tiny community of 30 inhabitants maintained the Norse folklore and live according to the old Julian calendar. Therefore, Yule is celebrated on January 6th. Foula’s sons and daughters primarily live from sheep and pony husbandry – far away from Brexit talks.

Floating with Ice

Colourful wooden houses embellish the panorama of the everlasting ice. With 484 km distance to the nearest town, Bolungarvík in Iceland, Ittoqqortoormiit is by far the most remote place in Greenland. It was founded in 1925, when families from West Greenland were relocated here. Dogsledding offers local transport for the approximately 350 inhabitants, while long-distance traffic is only available by plane and helicopter. Once a year, during the ice-free August, a supply ship brings goods from which the inhabitants live for the next 12 months. There is telecommunication, but no canalisation. The Greenlanders live castaway, but serene – far away from skyscrapers.

Wandering with Turtles

When jauntily touring around the Mediterranean, one might step over the Italian Isola di Linosa, which, together with Lampedusa and Lampione, is part of the Pelagie archipelago. Located between Malta and Tunis, the 5.4 square kilometre island is primarily characterized by its volcanic soil, black rocks, but diverse vegetation. Moreover, parts of the island were protected in 2002, as sea turtles lay their eggs on its beaches. For human tourists, it is forbidden to bring cars during the summer: the island’s silence needs to be maintained. The approximately 430 inhabitants live in the remote village of Linosa, on the southern coast – far away from traffic jams.

Hiking with a View

There it is – at a height of 2400 meters lies the small, tranquil, remote Ushguli. The Georgian village community in the middle of Upper Svaneti is the highest-situated in Europe. Ushguli consist of four constituent villages. They are home to about 200 people and notorious for its ancient defence towers, which are typical of the Svaneti region. The region is covered in snow for six months of the year, which often makes the road to the regional capital of Mestia impassable. However, an increasing number of individual adventurers are attracted by its archaic character – far away from packed beaches.

Residing with Serenity

Far across the deep blue Atlantic, the map depicts a tiny, green drop: Corvo, the smallest of the nine islands of the Azores. Discovered by the Portuguese explorer Diogo Teive in 1452, its settlement did not start until the 16th century. Due to their remote location, the approximately 400 inhabitants maintained a unique dialect, which contains archaic Portuguese words. As a result of a lacking natural seaport, its residents started cultivating especially corn and cabbage. The only village, Vila Nova do Corvo, is known for its houses built from black stone, its white facades and narrow alleys. Moreover, the use of wooded locks on the doors symbolizes peace and sense of community – far away from intruders.

Sharing with Skolts

Only a stone’s throw away from the Arctic Ocean and Norwegian border, we find the Skolt Sámi village of Sevettijärvi in municipality of Inari, the final corner of Finnish Lapland. It is surrounded by hiking trails that wind through the untouched wilderness of Europe’s North. After the war, in 1949, it became home for around 50 families that had been evacuated from Petsamo. Today, it is one of the few places in the world where the Skolt language is still alive. Lovers of ancient cultures are welcome to visit the Heritage House and learn about the Sámi way of life – far away from overfilled metros.

Living with Ghosts

The film director Ilian Metev dedicated his graduation film at the National Film and Television School in London to his Bulgarian homeland: Concretely, to the mountain village Goleshovo in the municipality of Sandanski, located close to the border of northernmost Greece. Metev documents the serene life and ominous death of the almost extinct village. The predominantly elderly inhabitants lament the emigration of the younger generation to the cities. Only very arduous paths through beautiful mountains lead to the forgotten tranquillity of Goleshevo – far away from Sofia’s night life.

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Rügen: A Treasure Chest Full of Historical Pearls

When arriving in Rügen, travelers will likely journey through Binz. This small town is the island’s most crowded destination, and always has events on offer. Travelers will find no opulent hotels, just white, wooden beach villas of coastal architecture. Through decades of tourism, its panorama has remained true to the Zeitgeist of the 19th century. After reunification, the German government earmarked funds for the renovation of buildings and roads.

Prora, on the other hand, offers a very different experience. Also known as the Colossus of Prora, this enormous waterfront building complex is a symbol of Third Reich architecture. Its builders intended for it to host up 20,000 people. During the Nazi era, the KdF (Kraft Durch Freude, or Strength Through Joy, a party organ devoted to recreational activities) acquired land on the island. The KdF planned for Seebad Rügen to become the biggest and most modern seaside resort in Europe, stretching 4.5 kilometres. However, it remained unfinished due to the Outbreak of World War II. After its destruction during the war, only five of the original eight apartment blocks remain, for a total length of about 2.5 kilometers.

The pretty town of Sellin, however, makes one forget the horrors of the past. Colourful rows of houses, small shops full of amber and restaurant with local specialties adorn the streets. The place is also home to one of Rügen’s emblems – the Sellin pier. Today, Sellin is a perfect starting point for excursions – for instance, to the Jamsund National Park.

A Paradise to Conquer  

Uncountable beech trees characterise the Jasmund National Park. The Park has an exceptionally wide range of habitats thanks to the complex effects of climate, relief and soil. Since 2011, its beech forest is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The 3,000-hectare forest invites explorers to take walks along the ancient trunks and below protective treetops.

In addition to beech trees, this section of Rügen sports its imposing Chalk Cliffs. They extend over a length of 15 kilometers on the peninsula Jasmund. The 120-meter-high rocks arose more than 50 million years ago from calcareous, fossil-like remains of various small animals, sand, clay and other rocks. The Chalk Cliffs have to endure constant erosion. With each storm, the rock changes and large pieces break out of the rocks and occasionally tear entire trees into the sea. A transient, but evolving beauty. This uniqueness was immortalised in 1818 by the German painter Caspar David Friedrich.

The Pirates of the Baltics

Some mysteries hide in those woods. Many waves ago, the notorious pirate Klaus Störtebeker was up to mischief. He and the “Victual Brothers” attacked ships of wealthy merchants to bring home gold and silver. They called themselves “Likedeeler” (= “equal sharers”), because they divided the plunder equally among them and the poor.

When the pirates were eventually condemned to beheading in Hamburg, Störtebeker had a last wish: all men he could pass with a severed head, should be saved from death. Störtebeker was beheaded, but with an upright gait the bloody body walked past eleven men. Then, however, the hangman tripped him up and he fell to the ground – all other fellows were beheaded. There are many legends about the pirate who is an essential part of Northern German folklore. Today, the Störetebeker Festival in Rügen brings the saga to life with live performances.

Hiddensee – Hidden in the Sea

If Rügen is still too “lively” for the above-mentioned reasons, one can continue the adventure on the near island of Hiddensee. “Dat söte Länneken” (local dialect for “the sweet land”) is proudly car-free. There are no engines to overshadow the shrieking of seagulls. No parking lots ruining the beach panorama. No emissions polluting the Baltic air.

Rügen’s little sister boasts of its picturesque cottages, crystal clear water and classic Northern German lighthouses, from which one can observe the peaceful sea. In autumn, a fabulous spectacle of nature takes place: the cranes move from the north into their winter quarters and take a break on Hiddensee – a very symbolic event, isn’t it?

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For the brain – provide information

Schools: Contact your childhood school and hold a talk to the students. Ask the, about their ideas on Europe and the EU, and explain to them how the European Parliament elections work. Adults can be reached indirectly through their children, like the Fridays for Future demonstrations have shown us.

Debates: You identify as European? And you don’t? Great! How about organizing a debate between local politicians from different parties and citizen of all ages in your city? Let them have a heated discussion about current issues, how they would build up their ideal European Union or why they don’t have time for that nonsense. Remember: the grumpier, the better.

Stands: Put up a table in a well frequented street with a banner and people will come by themselves. Once you have their attention, ask them whether they intend to vote in the elections, and give them a flyer, a pin, or any other freebie – your closest EU representation can help provide all the materials you’ll need.

Cultural institutions: Is there an Instituto Cervantes or a Finnish Institute nearby? Are they informing their followers – most of them expats – how to register? Are there any Europe-related events coming up? Would they offer you the opportunity to host an information evening in their venues? Get in touch with them, and you’ll be surprised at how willing they might be to help you host an event or share know-how.

For the heart – address emotions

Local Europeans: The football club, the Italian restaurant, the bartender in that one Irish pub. Ask them to upload an individual statement regarding the upcoming election.  But be sure that they underline why they can live and work in another country and that not everything is perfect, but just those that vote can make a change.

Tell your story: Have you undertaken an Erasmus experience which changed you? Did you travel to another EU country and find love? Has the EU helped you achieve your dreams or made your life easier? Share your story! Social media is a great way to reach friends and family, but if you are ambitious you can also find an organisation, youth group, magazine or other way to communicate your experience. Not to toot our own horn, but we at My Country? Europe. are always open for article or audiovisual submissions – if you’d like to share your thoughts on the European elections or the EU, head over to our submissions page!

Newspapers: Oh, there are so many opportunities. The journalists can either plan a bigger project (e.g. portraying every candidate, inform when, why and how to vote), write a shorter opinion article, or just go to the streets and ask locals what the EU means to them or what changes they would like to see. Don’t underestimate the power of local media – you will reach a different group of people without any algorithm or filter to warp your message. Social media is for beginners, but you are better than that.

Radio stations: This can be fun too. On the radio, one can easily work with languages, play pop, rock and folk songs from every country, or let people tell funny stories about their last holiday in an EU-country. Who are those people listening to radio? Right, those that are stuck in a traffic jam and need entertainment while they are waiting for traffic news. Do these people a favour and contact your radio DJs of trust.

For the stomach – explore Europe

Free chocolate: Walk around your town with a sign saying “free chocolate” and photos of Jean-Claude Juncker, Federica Mogherini, Robert Schuman, or any other European political figure. Ask people if they can put a name to the faces and if their answer is correct, they get a free piece of chocolate. If the answer is not correct or if they don’t know, tell them who they are, encourage them to get informed for the election, and then give a free piece of chocolate. Don’t exclude anyone or belittle them for their lack of knowledge, you’re there to help.

Street food: Europe is more than just pizza, baguettes and schnitzel. Grab a group of friends and organize a little street food market that offers also the Scandinavian, Eastern European and Baltic cuisine – showcase the variety of EU cultures and cuisines. Hang up information about these countries, how the EU brings them all closer together, and the election. The food can be heavy in the stomach, but the election will be in the mind.

Some final tips

It can be helpful to set up an e-mail account that you only use for your personal campaign. Your private account might not be taken as seriously. Create a template with your personal statement: who are you? Why do you campaign for the election? Why is it relevant to the people you are reaching out to? Maybe you can even combine brain with the heart: write your own article about your actions and ask local newspapers to publish it.

Secondly, don’t shy away from showcasing critical statements or opinions about the EU. It doesn’t matter who you will be voting for in the elections – you vote is valid and necessary. Be sure not to exclude people based on their party affiliation either.

All in all, never hesitate to be creative, outgoing, or even annoying. Europe is also your home. You can either do what you have to do to convince people to take part in democratic change, or you can sit on the sidelines and watch the EU crumble. It’s up to you.

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Catalonia’s villages – ancient hidden pearls in the hinterland

Barcelona is a splendour stifled by its own beauty. Girona being a key film location in the Game of Thrones made it a place of pilgrimage. While celebrating high school graduates crowd Costa Brava, but behind the facade of bread and circuses lie romantic villages that have been spared from tourism.

If you reminiscence about the golden days of the Middle Ages, you should not miss a trip to Besalú. This village is known for its romantic flair and ethnic diversity. The medieval atmosphere comes from Gothic churches, a monastery, and a synagogue. If you miss the sound of breaking waves, take the train to Pals. The Romanesque clock tower, a millennial church, well-preserved defence towers, narrow streets, and fairy-tale fountains are its landmarks. Moreover, the Mirador Josep Pla, a viewing platform, offers a breath-taking view over the hinterland of Costa Brava. From here, the Salzburg of Catalonia – the village of Peralada can be admired. Besides Castell de Peralada festival, the town is also famous for its castle and monastery. Today, it houses an important library, which, among other things, has antique editions of Don Quixote, as well as a glass and wine museum.

Catalan nature – where the treasures are buried

For those who prefer physical activity, Catalonia offers both waters and mountains. The Camí de Ronda, a former historic escape route between villages and beaches, is highly recommendable for lovers of the sea. The name goes back to the border guards who turned their laps to track down smugglers (ronda = engl. round). Nowadays, millennials enjoy excellent day-to-day transportation along the coast after a frolicsome party night. Altogether, the distance is about 43 kilometres, starting in the picturesque Sant Feliú de Guíxols and ending in the fishing village of Begur.

Els Tres Monts is a true midwinter night’s dream. The walking path in the backcountry of Barcelona runs through the enchanted forests of the three nature reserves: Montseny, Sant Lorenç i l’Obac, and Montserrat. Six stages with lengths of between 24 and 3.5 kilometres impress with untouched landscapes, marvellous panoramas and quaint villages along the way.

Summiteers can climb the Camí dels Bons Homes. “The good men” allude to the Cathars living in France until the 13th century. The Albigensian Crusade of the Catholic Church forced the Christian movement to flee across the Pyrenees. Once a journey into the unknown is today one of the most beautiful cross-border routes with a comfortable infrastructure and numerous hostels. Santuari de Santa Maria de Queralt is the starting point, the so-called “balcony of Catalonia”. After several idyllic highlights, the trail ends in the French Occitania, the home of the Cathars.

If the sea, forest, and mountains were not enough, La Garrotxa, a volcanic landscape might entice you. The trail network Itinerannia impresses with lava flows in mixed woodland. Here, there are twenty-eight trails covering everything Catalan: flora and fauna, castles and ancient churches. During winters, the trails have a particularly mystical atmosphere.

Catalan culture – Golden jewellery and glittering colours

To round off all the acquired cultural, architectural, and geographic knowledge, the end of a winter trip through Catalonia leads to Sitges, a lovely little town on the coast. Sitges is the carnival stronghold of the country. This year, the celebration of the fifth season will take place from 28^th February to 6^th March 2019 and will be opened by the crowned Carnival King; for most Catalans, the more honourable King.

Unlike the carnival of Vilanova i la Geltrú, which is celebrated more festively and traditionally, Sitges is known for its eccentricity. The carnivalists carry feathers and glitter costumes, following the Brazilian model. The back-story of the big party in the small town was once the rivalry between two clubs that wanted to make their carnival more colourful, lush, and louder than the other. Ultimately, it was megalomania of a hundred years ago that brought Sitges to this popularity. In other words: celebrate, dance, and show the world the second side of Catalonia’s face!

However, it does not matter which village, trail, or costume you choose. They all are a bloom of Catalan history and the cultural wealth of the Iberian Peninsula. With a freshly tapped Sant Jordi and a plate of Patates Braves, you can unwind, enjoy the seclusion, or party all week – Bon viatge!

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The dream for discoverers: a Nordic boon and bane

“Being at the North Cape is not about what you see, it’s about what you feel” is a commonly-echoed sentiment by tourists who once breathed in the air of the Norwegian Sea. Leaning against the railing of the Knivskjellodden, one sees peaceful and glassy water. There is no land left. Only the bitter cold, unknown depths, strange species in the dark sea.

Behind one’s back lie all man-made problems, megacities, traffic chaos and utility bills. All of this suddenly seems obsolete – downright ridiculous. However, after a few hours, the inner reason wins, and one starts to long for the familiar home, where one can think about the few minutes of loneliness and freedom in Norway.

Back in 1664, the Italian priest Francesco Negri was the first tourist ever to put his feet on the rocky soil in order to quench his thirst for adventures. Nowadays, summertime is marked by uncountable tourist buses, caravans, and vans full of Scandinavia-lovers starting their odyssey from the south. In fact, the general transport links are via the longest north-south European route, the E45. Eventually, most of the tourists leave the area both in awe and in disgust. They all agree: “I could live here for a week or two, but not longer, otherwise I’ll go crazy”.

The economic construction: Sámi magic paired with Viking power

The county (fylke) Finnmark, where the North Cape is located, is home to various ethnic groups. The settlement of the indigenous people, the Sámi, goes back at least about 2000 years ago. Norwegians and Finns started settling from the 18th century on to expand the fish trade.

Nowadays, the 19 municipalities are centrally managed from the city of Vadsø, close to the Russian border. Finnmark is Norway’s largest area in terms of area and, with only 1.5 inhabitants per square kilometre, the least densely populated region.

However, it is also the province that exports most goods per capita. Fish farming and wind power maintain strong and sustainable economic growth. Agriculture and reindeer husbandry, on the other hand, remain in the hands of the Sami culture. The largest cities and main tourist destinations are Alta (19,000 inhabitants), known as the capital of Northern lights, and Hammerfest (9,700 inhabitants), a main landing stage for the Norwegian Coastal Express and ferry Hurtigruten, the Express Route.

The North Cape lifestyle: A Norwegian dream

If you ask a Norwegian from the geographically simpler south, the old prejudices are likely to come up: they are honest people who curse and drink a lot but who are also more polite and joyful. Locals, however, would tell you a different story.

“The region is like a big family. Everyone knows everybody. And most importantly, everyone gossips about everybody. It’s more fun than you might think”, joked the receptionist in a small privately-owned hotel in the northernmost town of Honningsvåg. He also emphasised: “I have been to all kinds of places in the world. It’s always a blessing to come here, there’s nothing where I’d rather live, my friend, I have everything I need.”

The town where he lives, which some might call a small village, is surrounded by sparse hills in summer and dense blankets of snow in winter. It has a pier with crystal clear water, a few small restaurants, fisheries and extreme slim allies between colourful houses. Honnigsvåg is a Norwegian textbook dream destination.

Concerning the young people’s social life, the local from the hotel explained that young people meet in the same old club in Honnigsvåg on the weekend. In this case, we are not talking about classic “country bumpkins”. In fact, many young people go to Oslo or Bergen to study and benefit from the exchange programmes. Some deliberately choose to return and stay for good.

In a nutshell, this lifestyle is confirmed by the local proverb: ensomhet er ikke å være alene, men å ikke ha noen å savne. Loneliness does not mean being alone, but not having anything to miss.

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What is a mökki and what is its purpose? 

A mökki is a cottage, usually found in the woods or next to a lake. In Finland, there are approximately 1.8 million mökkis – quite a few if you think there are only 5.5 million inhabitants. It is said that the mökki tradition is merely a continuum of the yearning of the post-war generation who moved from land to city. A stay in a mökki allows one to experience the lifestyle of former generations, at a time when work was done by hand, before smartphones and the internet. In other words: when life was simple. In many mökkis, there is neither electricity nor running water. A trip to the cabin in the woods is a step back in time. Or, as the Finns say: behind God’s back.

Escapism from social structures

Nowadays, a student’s annual mökki-trip is one of the highlights of the year. Traditionally, in pure Finnish fashion, the mökki-stay during the summer goes hand in hand with heavy alcohol consumption. The purpose of escaping into the woods is quite obvious: young people enjoy being free from university. But instead of celebrating on a boat in Ibiza, many Finnish students follow the call of nature.

Aside from a student’s end-of-exams trip, a mökki is the perfect sanctuary for professionals and young families as well. Imagine the feeling of driving through snowy forests in winter, opening the door to the icy, quiet cottage where everything is exactly where you left it. Imagine the peace of just putting on the fireplace and listening to the whispering leaves outside. In the summertime, stars flood the sky and one can watch the sparks in the bonfire in clothes that would never otherwise be worn in public. The mökki is your territory and cannot be invaded – unless by a neighbour to share a cup of coffee.

Finally, hierarchies, stress, and professional behaviour are left in the city. It is not uncommon to see your company managers just as drunk as everyone else, completely naked in the sauna and sharing the feeling of togetherness. For all these reasons, a weekend on the mökki is recommended to all – preferably with its own 24-pack of Finnish beer and a guitar to play Wonderwall.

In a nutshell: it doesn’t matter if you’re a responsible grown-up or a student that likes to live the Finnish student life. You will travel back in time, enter a place to leave your worries behind and enjoy all the facets of the true Finnish wilderness: fresh air, fairytale forests, and a mind-freeing solitude. Hyvää matkaa!

A special thank to my dear friend and colleague Miika for feeding me with information about the mökki and his adventures to the European North.

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Come Meet Wars & Sawa

One might be forgiven for thinking of Vienna or Paris, but the answer lies in the further east, home of the mythological characters: Wars & Sawa. The twins are the eponym of Warsaw, Poland’s capital. Just like with every legend, there are many versions of their story, but they all agree on the reason why Warsaw was named after the children: a guest wanted to express his gratitude for the politeness and generosity that he received from his Polish hosts, Wars & Sawa’s parents.

In spite of these ancient origins, Warsaw is still young. The city was virtually razed to the ground during the Second World War, and a lot has been done since to mend those terrible wounds. Nowadays, the people of Warsaw are proud of the two faces of their hometown. Modern architecture joins historic buildings around the Vistula, a celebration of the desire to rebuild.

Like many cities in Eastern Europe, Warsaw is underestimated as a tourist destination. However, the city has so much to offer. When visiting, the bases must be covered. The heart of the city beats in Stare Miasto, the city’s Old Town. It dates back to the 13th Century and was carefully reconstructed after the war.
In stark contrast, the high-rise building of the Cold War era’s Palace of Culture and Science offers everything from theatres and cinemas to museums and sports clubs.
There is more to this city than these landmarks, however. Warsaw has two faces. The guest chooses one.

Visiting Warsaw for its culture and history

Warsaw belongs to the trophy collection of every music and history lover. A comprehensive tour of the Polish National Museum will give you a veritable crash course in all things Polish and acquaint you with the likes of Marie Curie and Jan Matejko. Next comes the Fryderyk Chopin Museum in which the composer’s handwritten notes and articulating piano make for a compelling musical exhibit. The scenic Nowy Świat Street makes a great place to take an evening stroll. Restaurants offering Polish and international cuisines line up the street. Dawne Smaki, one of the restaurants, is an example of the perfect Instagram post, and the food is stellar to boot. Smacznego!

Visiting Warsaw to get seriously hungover

Museums and restaurants are great, but what about fun and games? To Interrail fanatics, Erasmus students, or Flixbus travellers, Warsaw is a well-known destination to increase your blood-alcohol level in the quickest and cheapest way. Na zdrowie! Streets such as Marszałkowska, Świętokrzyska, and Mazowiecka offer different styles of music and fun. The supermarkets are open until 12 AM to get hammered during the night. Warsaw’s restaurants are open twenty-four hours, so you can have a hearty meal even at three in the morning. Finally, there are night buses that make the end of your night a car-free and an environmentally friendly pleasure.

In the painful morning, you enjoy two breakfasts which are customary in Poland, even though by this time you have probably forgotten in which country you are. For those looking for an easy day, the Vistula offers the best opportunity to turn the formula of Netflix & Chill into Outflix & Grill. The view of the skyline is great from here, but be on the lookout for bird droppings!

Which face suits you most? There’s only one way to find out. And when you go, make sure to tell the world. There are various versions of the stories about the twins and Warsaw, but yours is still missing.

Guest Article by Julia Kaiser

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