The Vespa on the Amalfi Coast, the gelato in Florence or the colourful houses of the Cinque Terre—we all know the cliché images of Italy on travel portals. This is no wonder that Italy ranks fifth worldwide for tourists with around 64.7 million international tourist arrivals in 2019, just behind France, Spain, the USA, and China.

But in times of the pandemic, it is advisable to avoid crowds as much as possible. At the same time, however, we also deserve to free our minds from the virus for a few days after being locked down. This is possible even in heavily frequented tourist destinations like Italy, for example in the Marche region. Unlike Lombardy or Sardinia, the region located in the centre of the country rarely makes it into the international press or pop-up advertising on Google. However, the 1.5 million inhabitants enjoy 173 kilometres of Adriatic coast and little cultural treasures—and so do the tourists who “get lost” in this region! But what is there to discover?

Fermo – Between the Middle Ages and the Roman Empire

Turns out there’s more than you might expect. The town of Fermo is a small jewel of the region. Located on top of a hill, the balconies of the city offer a panoramic view. In addition, the narrow streets are adorned with medieval walls. Culturally, Fermo offers an art gallery full of late Gothic paintings and one of Italy’s most renowned libraries full of ancient books and manuscripts. The 18th-century theatre “dell’Aquila” is considered  to be one of the most beautiful in the Marche and hosts operas and plays.

Aside from its cultural offer, Fermo also hides a historic treasure: the large Roman cisterns are a patrimony of the Augustan age. The cisterns have a maximum capacity of about 15,000 cubic metres which makes them the largest ever built by the Romans when it comes to surface area. But what if nature is calling instead?

Conero Natural Park – The Two Sisters and the Black Sand

What sounds like the title of a fairy tale are actually two different excursion destinations in the Conero Natural Park, which is located on the Adriatic coast. While there are various corners to discover, the Spiaggia delle Due Sorelle has to be one of the most well-known. Its two cliffs are called “due Sorelle” (“two sisters”) because they seem to have the shape of two praying nuns. The beach, which can be reached by ferry, was named one of the 10 most beautiful beaches in Italy in 2013.

Another destination is the Sassi Neri near Sirolo. This beach is not a real sandy beach and rather it is a stretch of coast with many tiny stones. From the parking lot, it is about a half-hour hike to the beautiful waters. The rather steep path is tough but leads directly through the flora and fauna of the national park. Guess the unavoidable sweating is worth it! But what if the city is calling instead?

San Benedetto del Tronto – From Sightseeing to the Beach

San Benedetto del Tronto, a city on the Adriatic Sea is located towards the southeast tip of the Marche, just before the border with Abruzzo. Founded in the 10th century, the city hosts one of the most important fishing ports in Italy. Seafaring is of great historical importance as demonstrated in detail across the various museums in the city. If the sea was was conquered, the land would subsequently be protected by two castles which guarded the city from any possible threats. If it is too hot for sightseeing, San Benedetto del Tronto also offers an 8-kilometre-long sandy beach and there are approximately 7,000 palm trees in the city for tourists to admire.

To our dismay, traveling remains difficult in today’s time. But perhaps, the Marche awoke the distant dreamer in you. Once we can pack our bags again and cross mountains as if it was nothing, you might find your way to the Marche, Italy’s lesser-known region. Crystal-clear waters, cultural offers, and a fresh plate of pasta are waiting for you!

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But there are places, no less European, where little of this can reach.

In the region of Troms og Finnmark, in Northern Norway, every winter magic repeats itself with no need for human intervention. The sun sets never to rise again until spring; the snow cloaks in a pale cape mountain and forest alike; and millions of herring fill the fjords, luring a host of whales and orcas. The latter is one of the most unique Wild Europe events.

Tours depart from Tromsø, a university town 75,000-strong, white pearl perched over 300 kilometres above the Arctic Circle. By car, van or bus, a jumbled band of operators will take people to the island of Skjervøy, some 130 kilometres farther north, where the whale feast is held. The guides are people like Aurore. Aside from boasting an apt name for these latitudes, she is a Belgian married to an Italian, speaking English to the tourists and Norwegian to the locals, and driving studded-wheeled through winding, frozen roads. It doesn’t get any more European than that.

Around 9:00 AM, the world starts to lighten up. The sun does not rise, but lingers at the rim of the southern horizon for a few hours, delivering an eerie hue. The polar twilight unveils the shape of jagged mountains looming around, shimmering fjords and shiny fir trees caked with ice. The very trip to Skjervøy is a wonder in itself.

Skjervøy is a fishermen village, to which whale tourism is both bless and blight. The whale-watching boats are moored at the local harbour, next to fishing vessels, tugs and sailers. By the time the party gets there, the southern sky is blushing and the north is azure: the light is finally enough to go at sea.

As the boat leaves the piers, a breeze picks up, raising plumes of spray from the foamy swells, spitting shreds of icy water all around. The temperature is still mild for the arctic, only a few degrees below freezing.

“There she blows!”. It is not long before the nowadays whalers spot the first spouts, an eruption of steam four metres tall: it’s a group of humpback whales. They move slowly, some tens of metres by the side of the boat. Above the surface, their blows are loud and contain a dissonant, characteristic high note. Below the surface, however, these giants sing low, lovely melodies. At some point, they head for the concert halls of the deep, diving; their flukes emerge, dripping water as if to say goodbye.

The boat moves farther off the coast. This time, tall black fins slash the swells, betraying the presence of orcas. Killer whale society is centred on matriarchal families which unite into larger blood-bound groups, or pods. Normally, pods live on their own, but here they gather from all over the North to feed. Their dozens of local dialects and foreign languages mingle in the water, making for a Nordic cultural melting pot. They head for some fishing vessels, where they will snatch herring directly from the nets. Fishermen must be careful: should one of the rascals get entangled in their gear, they would be forced by law to release the whole catch.

Once pillage and plunder are done, the raiding orcas move on in a slow post-meal travel. They appear and disappear in a sinuous dance, riding the waves. Their quiet blows are the only sound breaking the silence, soft and soothing beyond words. The day, too, is drowsily drawing to an end. The mountain tops, fang-like, bite at the fiery horizon. The sharp orcas’ dorsal fins seem to mimic the surrounding peaks.

Dusk darkens. It is time to head back, freezing outwardly but warm within. On the way to Tromsø, the serene skies may well bless the polar travellers with the green-purple sight of the Northern Lady.

Wanderers for a day, Europeans young and old will soon head back to their cities of lights, clubs, concerts and cramped buildings. But now they know there is more to their homeland. A place where only Aurora shines in the night, her features move in dance, leviathans sing, and the blackfish dwell.

Guest article by Luca Mapelli. This content does not necessarily reflect the official opinion of My Country? Europe. Responsibility for the information and views expressed therein lies entirely with the author.

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Flying with Birds 

Around 800 AD, the Norsemen conquered the Scottish island Foula, 20 miles west of mainland Shetland. Its name is Old Norse for “Bird island” – today it is a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) for its plants, birds and geology. During midsummer, a wide range of wildflowers adorn the island’s cliffs. Until nowadays, its Viking soul is alive and well: The tiny community of 30 inhabitants maintained the Norse folklore and live according to the old Julian calendar. Therefore, Yule is celebrated on January 6th. Foula’s sons and daughters primarily live from sheep and pony husbandry – far away from Brexit talks.

Floating with Ice

Colourful wooden houses embellish the panorama of the everlasting ice. With 484 km distance to the nearest town, Bolungarvík in Iceland, Ittoqqortoormiit is by far the most remote place in Greenland. It was founded in 1925, when families from West Greenland were relocated here. Dogsledding offers local transport for the approximately 350 inhabitants, while long-distance traffic is only available by plane and helicopter. Once a year, during the ice-free August, a supply ship brings goods from which the inhabitants live for the next 12 months. There is telecommunication, but no canalisation. The Greenlanders live castaway, but serene – far away from skyscrapers.

Wandering with Turtles

When jauntily touring around the Mediterranean, one might step over the Italian Isola di Linosa, which, together with Lampedusa and Lampione, is part of the Pelagie archipelago. Located between Malta and Tunis, the 5.4 square kilometre island is primarily characterized by its volcanic soil, black rocks, but diverse vegetation. Moreover, parts of the island were protected in 2002, as sea turtles lay their eggs on its beaches. For human tourists, it is forbidden to bring cars during the summer: the island’s silence needs to be maintained. The approximately 430 inhabitants live in the remote village of Linosa, on the southern coast – far away from traffic jams.

Hiking with a View

There it is – at a height of 2400 meters lies the small, tranquil, remote Ushguli. The Georgian village community in the middle of Upper Svaneti is the highest-situated in Europe. Ushguli consist of four constituent villages. They are home to about 200 people and notorious for its ancient defence towers, which are typical of the Svaneti region. The region is covered in snow for six months of the year, which often makes the road to the regional capital of Mestia impassable. However, an increasing number of individual adventurers are attracted by its archaic character – far away from packed beaches.

Residing with Serenity

Far across the deep blue Atlantic, the map depicts a tiny, green drop: Corvo, the smallest of the nine islands of the Azores. Discovered by the Portuguese explorer Diogo Teive in 1452, its settlement did not start until the 16th century. Due to their remote location, the approximately 400 inhabitants maintained a unique dialect, which contains archaic Portuguese words. As a result of a lacking natural seaport, its residents started cultivating especially corn and cabbage. The only village, Vila Nova do Corvo, is known for its houses built from black stone, its white facades and narrow alleys. Moreover, the use of wooded locks on the doors symbolizes peace and sense of community – far away from intruders.

Sharing with Skolts

Only a stone’s throw away from the Arctic Ocean and Norwegian border, we find the Skolt Sámi village of Sevettijärvi in municipality of Inari, the final corner of Finnish Lapland. It is surrounded by hiking trails that wind through the untouched wilderness of Europe’s North. After the war, in 1949, it became home for around 50 families that had been evacuated from Petsamo. Today, it is one of the few places in the world where the Skolt language is still alive. Lovers of ancient cultures are welcome to visit the Heritage House and learn about the Sámi way of life – far away from overfilled metros.

Living with Ghosts

The film director Ilian Metev dedicated his graduation film at the National Film and Television School in London to his Bulgarian homeland: Concretely, to the mountain village Goleshovo in the municipality of Sandanski, located close to the border of northernmost Greece. Metev documents the serene life and ominous death of the almost extinct village. The predominantly elderly inhabitants lament the emigration of the younger generation to the cities. Only very arduous paths through beautiful mountains lead to the forgotten tranquillity of Goleshevo – far away from Sofia’s night life.

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Rügen: A Treasure Chest Full of Historical Pearls

When arriving in Rügen, travelers will likely journey through Binz. This small town is the island’s most crowded destination, and always has events on offer. Travelers will find no opulent hotels, just white, wooden beach villas of coastal architecture. Through decades of tourism, its panorama has remained true to the Zeitgeist of the 19th century. After reunification, the German government earmarked funds for the renovation of buildings and roads.

Prora, on the other hand, offers a very different experience. Also known as the Colossus of Prora, this enormous waterfront building complex is a symbol of Third Reich architecture. Its builders intended for it to host up 20,000 people. During the Nazi era, the KdF (Kraft Durch Freude, or Strength Through Joy, a party organ devoted to recreational activities) acquired land on the island. The KdF planned for Seebad Rügen to become the biggest and most modern seaside resort in Europe, stretching 4.5 kilometres. However, it remained unfinished due to the Outbreak of World War II. After its destruction during the war, only five of the original eight apartment blocks remain, for a total length of about 2.5 kilometers.

The pretty town of Sellin, however, makes one forget the horrors of the past. Colourful rows of houses, small shops full of amber and restaurant with local specialties adorn the streets. The place is also home to one of Rügen’s emblems – the Sellin pier. Today, Sellin is a perfect starting point for excursions – for instance, to the Jamsund National Park.

A Paradise to Conquer  

Uncountable beech trees characterise the Jasmund National Park. The Park has an exceptionally wide range of habitats thanks to the complex effects of climate, relief and soil. Since 2011, its beech forest is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The 3,000-hectare forest invites explorers to take walks along the ancient trunks and below protective treetops.

In addition to beech trees, this section of Rügen sports its imposing Chalk Cliffs. They extend over a length of 15 kilometers on the peninsula Jasmund. The 120-meter-high rocks arose more than 50 million years ago from calcareous, fossil-like remains of various small animals, sand, clay and other rocks. The Chalk Cliffs have to endure constant erosion. With each storm, the rock changes and large pieces break out of the rocks and occasionally tear entire trees into the sea. A transient, but evolving beauty. This uniqueness was immortalised in 1818 by the German painter Caspar David Friedrich.

The Pirates of the Baltics

Some mysteries hide in those woods. Many waves ago, the notorious pirate Klaus Störtebeker was up to mischief. He and the “Victual Brothers” attacked ships of wealthy merchants to bring home gold and silver. They called themselves “Likedeeler” (= “equal sharers”), because they divided the plunder equally among them and the poor.

When the pirates were eventually condemned to beheading in Hamburg, Störtebeker had a last wish: all men he could pass with a severed head, should be saved from death. Störtebeker was beheaded, but with an upright gait the bloody body walked past eleven men. Then, however, the hangman tripped him up and he fell to the ground – all other fellows were beheaded. There are many legends about the pirate who is an essential part of Northern German folklore. Today, the Störetebeker Festival in Rügen brings the saga to life with live performances.

Hiddensee – Hidden in the Sea

If Rügen is still too “lively” for the above-mentioned reasons, one can continue the adventure on the near island of Hiddensee. “Dat söte Länneken” (local dialect for “the sweet land”) is proudly car-free. There are no engines to overshadow the shrieking of seagulls. No parking lots ruining the beach panorama. No emissions polluting the Baltic air.

Rügen’s little sister boasts of its picturesque cottages, crystal clear water and classic Northern German lighthouses, from which one can observe the peaceful sea. In autumn, a fabulous spectacle of nature takes place: the cranes move from the north into their winter quarters and take a break on Hiddensee – a very symbolic event, isn’t it?

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Catalonia’s villages – ancient hidden pearls in the hinterland

Barcelona is a splendour stifled by its own beauty. Girona being a key film location in the Game of Thrones made it a place of pilgrimage. While celebrating high school graduates crowd Costa Brava, but behind the facade of bread and circuses lie romantic villages that have been spared from tourism.

If you reminiscence about the golden days of the Middle Ages, you should not miss a trip to Besalú. This village is known for its romantic flair and ethnic diversity. The medieval atmosphere comes from Gothic churches, a monastery, and a synagogue. If you miss the sound of breaking waves, take the train to Pals. The Romanesque clock tower, a millennial church, well-preserved defence towers, narrow streets, and fairy-tale fountains are its landmarks. Moreover, the Mirador Josep Pla, a viewing platform, offers a breath-taking view over the hinterland of Costa Brava. From here, the Salzburg of Catalonia – the village of Peralada can be admired. Besides Castell de Peralada festival, the town is also famous for its castle and monastery. Today, it houses an important library, which, among other things, has antique editions of Don Quixote, as well as a glass and wine museum.

Catalan nature – where the treasures are buried

For those who prefer physical activity, Catalonia offers both waters and mountains. The Camí de Ronda, a former historic escape route between villages and beaches, is highly recommendable for lovers of the sea. The name goes back to the border guards who turned their laps to track down smugglers (ronda = engl. round). Nowadays, millennials enjoy excellent day-to-day transportation along the coast after a frolicsome party night. Altogether, the distance is about 43 kilometres, starting in the picturesque Sant Feliú de Guíxols and ending in the fishing village of Begur.

Els Tres Monts is a true midwinter night’s dream. The walking path in the backcountry of Barcelona runs through the enchanted forests of the three nature reserves: Montseny, Sant Lorenç i l’Obac, and Montserrat. Six stages with lengths of between 24 and 3.5 kilometres impress with untouched landscapes, marvellous panoramas and quaint villages along the way.

Summiteers can climb the Camí dels Bons Homes. “The good men” allude to the Cathars living in France until the 13th century. The Albigensian Crusade of the Catholic Church forced the Christian movement to flee across the Pyrenees. Once a journey into the unknown is today one of the most beautiful cross-border routes with a comfortable infrastructure and numerous hostels. Santuari de Santa Maria de Queralt is the starting point, the so-called “balcony of Catalonia”. After several idyllic highlights, the trail ends in the French Occitania, the home of the Cathars.

If the sea, forest, and mountains were not enough, La Garrotxa, a volcanic landscape might entice you. The trail network Itinerannia impresses with lava flows in mixed woodland. Here, there are twenty-eight trails covering everything Catalan: flora and fauna, castles and ancient churches. During winters, the trails have a particularly mystical atmosphere.

Catalan culture – Golden jewellery and glittering colours

To round off all the acquired cultural, architectural, and geographic knowledge, the end of a winter trip through Catalonia leads to Sitges, a lovely little town on the coast. Sitges is the carnival stronghold of the country. This year, the celebration of the fifth season will take place from 28^th February to 6^th March 2019 and will be opened by the crowned Carnival King; for most Catalans, the more honourable King.

Unlike the carnival of Vilanova i la Geltrú, which is celebrated more festively and traditionally, Sitges is known for its eccentricity. The carnivalists carry feathers and glitter costumes, following the Brazilian model. The back-story of the big party in the small town was once the rivalry between two clubs that wanted to make their carnival more colourful, lush, and louder than the other. Ultimately, it was megalomania of a hundred years ago that brought Sitges to this popularity. In other words: celebrate, dance, and show the world the second side of Catalonia’s face!

However, it does not matter which village, trail, or costume you choose. They all are a bloom of Catalan history and the cultural wealth of the Iberian Peninsula. With a freshly tapped Sant Jordi and a plate of Patates Braves, you can unwind, enjoy the seclusion, or party all week – Bon viatge!

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The dream for discoverers: a Nordic boon and bane

“Being at the North Cape is not about what you see, it’s about what you feel” is a commonly-echoed sentiment by tourists who once breathed in the air of the Norwegian Sea. Leaning against the railing of the Knivskjellodden, one sees peaceful and glassy water. There is no land left. Only the bitter cold, unknown depths, strange species in the dark sea.

Behind one’s back lie all man-made problems, megacities, traffic chaos and utility bills. All of this suddenly seems obsolete – downright ridiculous. However, after a few hours, the inner reason wins, and one starts to long for the familiar home, where one can think about the few minutes of loneliness and freedom in Norway.

Back in 1664, the Italian priest Francesco Negri was the first tourist ever to put his feet on the rocky soil in order to quench his thirst for adventures. Nowadays, summertime is marked by uncountable tourist buses, caravans, and vans full of Scandinavia-lovers starting their odyssey from the south. In fact, the general transport links are via the longest north-south European route, the E45. Eventually, most of the tourists leave the area both in awe and in disgust. They all agree: “I could live here for a week or two, but not longer, otherwise I’ll go crazy”.

The economic construction: Sámi magic paired with Viking power

The county (fylke) Finnmark, where the North Cape is located, is home to various ethnic groups. The settlement of the indigenous people, the Sámi, goes back at least about 2000 years ago. Norwegians and Finns started settling from the 18th century on to expand the fish trade.

Nowadays, the 19 municipalities are centrally managed from the city of Vadsø, close to the Russian border. Finnmark is Norway’s largest area in terms of area and, with only 1.5 inhabitants per square kilometre, the least densely populated region.

However, it is also the province that exports most goods per capita. Fish farming and wind power maintain strong and sustainable economic growth. Agriculture and reindeer husbandry, on the other hand, remain in the hands of the Sami culture. The largest cities and main tourist destinations are Alta (19,000 inhabitants), known as the capital of Northern lights, and Hammerfest (9,700 inhabitants), a main landing stage for the Norwegian Coastal Express and ferry Hurtigruten, the Express Route.

The North Cape lifestyle: A Norwegian dream

If you ask a Norwegian from the geographically simpler south, the old prejudices are likely to come up: they are honest people who curse and drink a lot but who are also more polite and joyful. Locals, however, would tell you a different story.

“The region is like a big family. Everyone knows everybody. And most importantly, everyone gossips about everybody. It’s more fun than you might think”, joked the receptionist in a small privately-owned hotel in the northernmost town of Honningsvåg. He also emphasised: “I have been to all kinds of places in the world. It’s always a blessing to come here, there’s nothing where I’d rather live, my friend, I have everything I need.”

The town where he lives, which some might call a small village, is surrounded by sparse hills in summer and dense blankets of snow in winter. It has a pier with crystal clear water, a few small restaurants, fisheries and extreme slim allies between colourful houses. Honnigsvåg is a Norwegian textbook dream destination.

Concerning the young people’s social life, the local from the hotel explained that young people meet in the same old club in Honnigsvåg on the weekend. In this case, we are not talking about classic “country bumpkins”. In fact, many young people go to Oslo or Bergen to study and benefit from the exchange programmes. Some deliberately choose to return and stay for good.

In a nutshell, this lifestyle is confirmed by the local proverb: ensomhet er ikke å være alene, men å ikke ha noen å savne. Loneliness does not mean being alone, but not having anything to miss.

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Come Meet Wars & Sawa

One might be forgiven for thinking of Vienna or Paris, but the answer lies in the further east, home of the mythological characters: Wars & Sawa. The twins are the eponym of Warsaw, Poland’s capital. Just like with every legend, there are many versions of their story, but they all agree on the reason why Warsaw was named after the children: a guest wanted to express his gratitude for the politeness and generosity that he received from his Polish hosts, Wars & Sawa’s parents.

In spite of these ancient origins, Warsaw is still young. The city was virtually razed to the ground during the Second World War, and a lot has been done since to mend those terrible wounds. Nowadays, the people of Warsaw are proud of the two faces of their hometown. Modern architecture joins historic buildings around the Vistula, a celebration of the desire to rebuild.

Like many cities in Eastern Europe, Warsaw is underestimated as a tourist destination. However, the city has so much to offer. When visiting, the bases must be covered. The heart of the city beats in Stare Miasto, the city’s Old Town. It dates back to the 13th Century and was carefully reconstructed after the war.
In stark contrast, the high-rise building of the Cold War era’s Palace of Culture and Science offers everything from theatres and cinemas to museums and sports clubs.
There is more to this city than these landmarks, however. Warsaw has two faces. The guest chooses one.

Visiting Warsaw for its culture and history

Warsaw belongs to the trophy collection of every music and history lover. A comprehensive tour of the Polish National Museum will give you a veritable crash course in all things Polish and acquaint you with the likes of Marie Curie and Jan Matejko. Next comes the Fryderyk Chopin Museum in which the composer’s handwritten notes and articulating piano make for a compelling musical exhibit. The scenic Nowy Świat Street makes a great place to take an evening stroll. Restaurants offering Polish and international cuisines line up the street. Dawne Smaki, one of the restaurants, is an example of the perfect Instagram post, and the food is stellar to boot. Smacznego!

Visiting Warsaw to get seriously hungover

Museums and restaurants are great, but what about fun and games? To Interrail fanatics, Erasmus students, or Flixbus travellers, Warsaw is a well-known destination to increase your blood-alcohol level in the quickest and cheapest way. Na zdrowie! Streets such as Marszałkowska, Świętokrzyska, and Mazowiecka offer different styles of music and fun. The supermarkets are open until 12 AM to get hammered during the night. Warsaw’s restaurants are open twenty-four hours, so you can have a hearty meal even at three in the morning. Finally, there are night buses that make the end of your night a car-free and an environmentally friendly pleasure.

In the painful morning, you enjoy two breakfasts which are customary in Poland, even though by this time you have probably forgotten in which country you are. For those looking for an easy day, the Vistula offers the best opportunity to turn the formula of Netflix & Chill into Outflix & Grill. The view of the skyline is great from here, but be on the lookout for bird droppings!

Which face suits you most? There’s only one way to find out. And when you go, make sure to tell the world. There are various versions of the stories about the twins and Warsaw, but yours is still missing.

Guest Article by Julia Kaiser

Did you enjoy this article? You may also like Top Ten Famous Dance Songs That Are Actually European or The Wall: a European album that warns us against our inner Nazi dictator

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Ryanair, the largest European airline, and Erasmus Student Network are launching an exclusive partnership. The objective is to provide Erasmus students with attractive prices. The offer will include 15% discount on flights on the Ryanair.com website and a free checked-in bag with every flight booked. This is the full list of benefits on offer:

• 15% discount on 8 single flights (or 4 return flights).
• Free check-in luggage of 15kg with each of these 8 flights booked.
• Weekly travel offers for Erasmus students.
• Tailored in-journey offers on the mobile app.

For further information please visit the airline’s  Partnership FAQ.

SOURCE: ESN

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Casa Poporului (People’s House) – this is the name given to it by the dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu – is the second biggest administrative building after the Pentagon and the fourth largest building in the world. It has more than one thousand rooms and it’s almost entirely built with materials extracted within the Romanian territory: the wet dream of any autharchic despot.

Coming from a Mediterranean city like Naples, known for its sunny and warm climate, I found the first days of stay quite depressing: the ever grey sky of Bucharest in February overlooked the ever grey blocks of Communist memory which filled the sector I lived in. I spent the first days exploring the city alone, and despite the ubiquitous grey accompanied by a neverending thin rain, those were the days I first discovered real freedom.
That was really a big deal: a guy who used to live with his parents now had a big shared apartment at the centre of a European capital, with enough money to live in a decent way for five months; without the EU funds I couldn’t have afforded it.

Later on I began to contact other fellow Erasmus students: I met people from many countries, especially France, Spain and, of course, Romania. I’m still in touch with some of them, and we became really good friends.
The local section of the Erasmus Student Network (ESN) played an important role by letting the students know each other more easily and organizing tours of Bucharest’s most important places that maybe I wouldn’t have visited independently.
The context in which Erasmus students find themselves at the beginning of their exchange program allows them to form cohesive groups and good friendships, because the situation is the same for everyone: alone in a completely unknown city where you will spend from 3 to 12 months of your life.
I also met interesting colleagues at the University of Bucharest – where I studied – with whom now our website has started a good virtual collaboration.

Contrarily to the stereotypes we’re used to hear in Western Europe, in general I found a well educated youth with a very good knowledge of the English language, way better than in countries like Italy or France. The transportation system was excellent, with buses and metro trains being brand new and usually in time (trams were generally very outdated). Other stereotypes were contrarywise confirmed: homelessness, poverty and alcoholism are still widespread and the Romani people (which constitute the second biggest minority in the country after Hungarians) are still heavily discriminated against, and left to fend for themselves. You could see ten year olds sniffing Aurolac – a toxic metallic paint used to suppress cold and hunger – even in the center of the city, in front of dozens of people.

I enjoyed the local food, especially the sarmale and the papanași, but toward the end of the Erasmus the need of pasta and Italian food in general (which was really expensive there) was reaching unbearable levels.

At some point my friends and I decided that Bucharest was not enough: taking advantage of the discounts given to university students, we explored the rest of the country traveling with the cheap and outdated Romanian railway lines. We mainly toured Transylvania and the sea coast, visiting small villages and cities like Brașov, Sighișoara and Sibiu, which I strongly recommend visiting for their beauty. We were always well received by the local people, especially in small villages, and found it really easy to hitchhike when trains or buses were not available.

What I find difficult is to answer to those who ask me if I liked Bucharest: the city has certainly beautiful spots and parks, but I find it pretty ugly overall, especially for the omnipresent Communist era blocks and the pervasive neglect of public spaces, even in the old city centre. The Romanian capital may be not the perfect destination for a casual trip, but it has everything an Erasmus student could ask.

Overall, this has been an amazing experience; everyone, from students to workers, should have the possibility to explore a European country and study at a foreign university. Check the websites of your universities or institutes to find the scholarships available: you will learn a lot, and you will probably come back as a different person. It’s really worth it.

Don’t get used to Erasmus too much though, you could end up in a small dispersed village at the Danube Delta drinking ţuică in a garage with two Romanian rappers.

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